Ask Anna

How can I add fringe to my focal bead?

2010-03-01T20:00:00Z

Q I purchased several art-glass beads from a bead show, and I'm not sure what to do with them. I want to hang them vertically from a necklace. Do you have any suggestions for how to do this?

– Nicole

A Adding fringe and a bail to art-glass beads is a great way to suspend a focal bead from a necklace and enhance the bead's colors and design. When I design a necklace for Spotlight, I often pick a bead that has bold colors or a strong pattern. This way, I can pick up an element of the bead to incorporate into my design. As I design, I keep in mind that I don't want to overpower or distract from the bead, but complement and extend the design of the bead throughout the embellishment.

After choosing the focal bead, I determine what type of fringe will look best. Some beads look really good with metal accents, and others look better with beads only. Choosing between metal or beads will make it easy to decide what technique to use. If I like the look of metal, I'll start by cutting a piece of wire, making a plain loop on one end, stringing the wire through the bead, and making a plain loop on the other end. The loops serve as the bail on one end and a place to attach fringe on the other. Now to the fringe. There are two different kinds of wirework fringe I like to use:

Links of wire fringe, and dangles on chain fringe.

• One is links of wire, with dangles on the bottom. It is quick and easy to do and has great movement. Make a plain loop on one end of a short piece of wire, string the desired beads on the wire, and make another plain loop. Open one loop and attach it to the loop at the bottom of the art-glass bead. Make a dangle by stringing a bead onto a head pin, and make a plain loop above the bead. Open the loop, and attach it to the remaining hole at the bottom of the link. Repeat to add as much fringe as desired.

• The other method is to suspend a chain from the bottom of the bead, then embellish the links with dangles. You can attach any length of chain, but keep in mind that more chain will mean more dangles. You can just use one bead for a dangle or several or a combination of both. Another option: I like to string a bead on a head pin, then use the rest of the head pin to make a little corkscrew. It adds interest, and can really fit into the design of the art-glass bead. You can also curve the wire a bit to make a slightly different shape if using seed beads for your dangle.

If I decide that a fringe of stitched beads will work best, I choose either straight fringe, twisted fringe, or branched fringe. For any stitched fringe, I make the bail and fringe at the same time, by sewing through the focal bead, picking up small beads to make a loop at the top of the focal bead, then sewing back through the first small bead and focal bead. Exiting the bottom, make a fringe. When you finish the first fringe, sew through the focal bead, the beads in the loop, and back through the focal bead to place your next fringe. You can incorporate accent beads or bead caps on either end of the focal bead. Don't be afraid to experiment! If you have to start over, so what? You are learning what works. And fringing a focal bead is a small enough project to work on these skills without getting too overwhelmed.

Straight, twisted, and branched fringe samples.

• Straight fringe is just that: stringing your desired number of beads, an end bead, then sewing back through the beads so the fringe hangs straight down from the focal bead. You can make all the fringe the same length, graduated lengths, or spiky and short. You can incorporate all different beads or just one style. The options are literally endless, so experiment and see what looks the best.

• Twisted fringe can be a little tricky to master, but once you do it is a great option to have. Using seed beads, string a little over twice the length you want your fringe to be. I like size 15 seed beads for this because, due to their size, they twist together nicely, making a neat, thin twisted fringe. After stringing the beads, you twist the thread between your thumb and forefinger for a while. To test the amount of twist in the fringe, fold the length of beads in half, keeping the thread pinched between your fingers so you don't loose the twist. The beads should naturally begin to wind around themselves. If you want a tighter twist, keep going. If the twist is fine as is, sew through the top bead in the fringe to hold it in place before moving on to the next fringe. You can tie a half-hitch knot at the top of the fringe before moving on to the next one.

• Branched fringe is fun and funky and so versatile. You can make all your branches the same length or different lengths, and you can use all the same beads or different ones. I love the lush look of an explosion of seed beads at the bottom of an art-glass bead. I like to be subtle with the bead colors I use in the fringe, since branched fringe seems to stand out more than the other types because of its fullness. To create a branched fringe, string a number of seed beads onto the thread, skip the last bead, and sew back through several seed beads. Pick up some seed beads, skip the last one, and sew through the rest of the beads just picked up. Sew through some of the original beads, and repeat the branch process. You can add as many or as few branches as desired, and you can include an accent bead at the end of the branches if desired as well.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

Does organization hamper creativity?

2010-02-01T20:37:00Z

Here is a question from me to you. I struggle with this question because it seems like "a place for everything and everything in it's place" would be a good idea (especially according to my dear Grandma Gloria), but when I clean and clear my work station before starting a project, my mind goes blank. Then, as I rummage through drawers and bins of all the treasures I've collected over the years, a spark of an idea is sure to appear. The more I clutter up my surroundings, the more ideas mesh with previous ones, willing me to use beads that I wouldn't normally put together. It is amazing to me how easily I can accept two bead strangers when they are thrown in the mix when I would have never picked them up in the same shopping foray.

So can clutter contribute to creation? I think absolutely yes. If a spray of seed beads, crystals, wires, findings, and gemstones still doesn't inspire, I add to the mess some of the gaudiest fashion magazines I can find so I can look at all the jewels dripping off of the models. I rarely would want a piece of jewelry that drapes daringly down the front of a $4000 dress, but one small element of that necklace probably has enough of an idea for me to take and shape and change into my own. Same thing applies to colors -- fashion mags are a great place for inspiration.

Furthering the clutter, my new favorite hobby is ripping out pages with jewelry or color combinations that I like and tacking them up to look at as I walk past. I believe I'm able to store all these different images in my mind and that they will emerge as some fabulous teaching designs for my students, or perhaps another book, hmmmm... Either way, they fill my need to keep changing, developing, and growing as an artist, and what could be more important than that? (Yes, I know, feeding the family comes first.)

One organization tip I do find very helpful, though, is to do a "tidy up" session after you complete about five new ideas. You will be able to start the process all over again, but without having to preform the arduous task of putting away every little bead each time you finish a project. Also, I'm a firm believer that one project can easily slide into the next if you keep the creative juices (and clutter) flowing. But having a general area for the beads to live will help you when you are looking for that certain size bead in deep blue iris.

My style of organization is thin drawers. They only came in black at the show I was at, so I lined all the drawers with white paper and separated my beads by size. I also lined some of the drawers with Vellux to use as project drawers. That way I can slide them out of sight if necessary. At the end of the day, I can't wait to get home to my organized clutter, ready for the next idea to come along.

Do you have any ideas for creativepeople who may need a little help keeping their beads in some sort of order? Please post any organization ideas below.

How do I keep my necklace clasp at the back of my neck?

2009-12-01T14:37:00Z

Q Aloha, Anna! Why do my necklaces keep spinning around my neck, so that the clasps are in the front? It is annoying and unsightly. It doesn't seem to matter what kind of chain or clasp or jewelry design. Is my neck too fat? My hair too long? My jewelry choices bad? Help! Tangled in Volcano, Laura

A Aloha, Laura!
That is a common problem with many necklace designs. If the necklace is relatively the same weight all around, there is nothing to hold it in place. My favorite fix for that is to hang a counterweight off of the clasp. I like to use an adjustable-style clasp by using a lobster claw on one side of the necklace and a short length of chain on the other. This way, I can change the length of the necklace if desired. But also I like to hang dangles of beads using head pins off of the last several links of the chain. This seems to keep the necklace in place, and if it does start to twist around my neck, I can feel it right away and move it back to where it should be. It is a nice touch at the back of the neck as well, adding an extra design element.

Also, I don’t know what kind of necklace designs you've tried, but if you graduate the beads from smaller/lighter beads at the back of the necklace with bigger/heavier beads toward the front of the necklace, that might help too. Another good design idea to keep the clasp in the back is to make a double-strand necklace; the weight of the strands should help keep the necklace centered as well.

You might also want to use a focal bead or pendant secured at the front of the necklace. If you string half of the necklace, then the focal bead or pendant (making sure the hole through the bead or the bail of the pendant isn't large enough to fit over the beads in the necklace), and then the other half of the necklace, the weight of the focal bead or pendant should keep the necklace from turning.

If you do have a larger neck, wearing a longer necklace with some of the ideas above would probably help too. Different lengths and necklace designs are going to drape differently on different body types, so do a little experimenting to see which style works best for you.

Good luck, Laura, and if anyone has any other great ideas, please share by posting your comment below!
Anna

Using an adjustable lobster claw/chain closure allows for a counterweight option to keep your necklace from turning on your neck.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do I keep briolettes from flipping around on my necklace designs?

2009-11-02T15:32:00Z

Q When stringing gemstone briolettes in a necklace, I have had trouble with the briolettes flipping to the inside of the necklace. I am constantly fussing with the briolettes to turn them to the outside when I wear the necklace. Is there a way to prevent this?

A There are a couple of ways to remedy this situation, especially if you are willing to try other techniques besides stringing. If you are simply stringing a necklace, leave a little slack between the beads when you crimp the ends so the beads will naturally lie properly. You can also try knotting between the beads. The cord used has a much softer drape, so the weight of the beads holds them in place. Also, keeping the beads centered in the front of the necklace will keep them from flipping up. Another technique is to make links with wire by making a plain loop on either side of the briolette and linking them together. The drops will swing freely on the links, and, because they are bottom-heavy, they'll lie properly.

Knotting between the beads allows the beads to drape nicely.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How can I finish a multiple-strand bracelet or necklace?

2009-10-02T21:00:00Z

Q I am a beginner at making jewelry, and I have a question that I need some help with. I am trying to make a bracelet with four strands of beads, and I want to finish the ends off with a bead cap. How do I do this? It gets too bulky to put a loop at the end of each of the strings to pull them through the bead cap. There must be a better way. Help! – Ann, San Diego, California

A Good question, Ann, and I have two answers for you. But before you get started, take a moment to look at an overview of tools in our Introduction to Tools video. Before you string your beads, secure one end of each of the four strands using a Bead Stopper or tape. Then string about 3/8 in. (1 cm) of seed beads. The four strands should easily slip into the bead cap. I used five strands in my sample because I like working with an odd number of strands, but you could use this technique with as many strands as you want. After your strands are all strung to the same length, string more seed beads to flush up the ends.

Depending on the strung design of each strand, you will use a different amount of seed beads to make each end flush with the next.

String a crimp bead over all the strands, and snug it up to the seed beads. Crimp the crimp bead.

String a second crimp bead next to the first one, and crimp it. Saving one or two wires, cut the remaining wires next to the second crimp. Slide the bead cap over the one or two saved wire ends.

String an accent bead, a crimp bead, and enough seed beads to make a small loop. (I used 17 size 15 beads.) Go back through the crimp, and snug up the loop.

Crimp the crimp bead, and cover it with a crimp cover if desired. Open a jump ring, and attach half of a clasp. Remove the Bead Stopper or tape, and repeat the process on the other end. Or instead of grouping all the strands together, crimp them individually. String all your strands, and get them flush as the explained above. Then:

On one wire, string a crimp bead (I used micro crimps because I strung my strands on .010 flexible beading wire), and go back through the crimp bead with the wire end. Pull the end of the wire until you have a small loop. Crimp the crimp bead. Repeat on all the strands.

On about 6 in. (15 cm) of 22-gauge wire, make the first half of a wrapped loop, and slide all the little loops at the end of the beaded strands onto the loop.

Finish the wraps, and trim the excess wire. Slide a bead cap and an accent bead on the remaining wire.

Make the first half of another wrapped loop above the accent bead. Slide half of a clasp into the loop. Finish the wraps and trim the wire.

I hope this helps you, Ann. If anyone else has great ideas for finishing a multistrand project, be sure to post them below!

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How many seed beads will I need for a tubular herringbone or peyote rope?

2009-08-31T16:29:00Z

Q Dear Anna, How can you calculate the number of beads you will need in a tubular herringbone stitch (straight or twisted) or tubular peyote stitch rope? I am asking because sometimes you find great mixes of beads with the mention of "make sure to buy enough for your project" because of dye lot or because the mix may be retired. I tried to make a necklace in twisted herringbone stitch, and I had to convert it into a bracelet due to the lack of beads. How can I avoid this in the future? – Guylaine

A That is a really good question, but kind of tricky to answer. It really depends on how many beads are in each round, and the size of beads you are using.

You can stitch up a sample tube that is 1 in. (2.5 cm) long, then count the number of beads in each round and the number of rounds in the sample. Multiply those numbers and you will get the number of beads in 1 inch. Then decide how many inches your necklace will be, and multiply that by the number of beads in 1 inch. This will give you the approximate number of beads you'll need. You can also weigh the sample, and multiply the weight by the number of inches you'd like the finished necklace to be. This will give you the approximate weight of beads you'll need to buy. The thread in the sample will add a bit of weight, but it will be better to have leftover beads than not enough beads.

Fine woven rings, designed by Smadar Grossman, appears in the October issue

Now if you do end up making a tube that is shorter than you had hoped, you could change up your design by adding a coordinating color and work the remaining rounds in that color, or split up the coordinating beads and add them to each end of the tube, highlighting your special beads.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do you attach a clasp to a crocheted rope?

2009-08-01T13:00:00Z

QHow do I attach a toggle clasp to the end of a crocheted rope? - Joie Son

AThat is a good question Joie, and I have a simple answer for you. You'll need your finished rope, a tapestry needle, two bead caps or small cones, two decorative beads, and about 12 inches (30 cm) of 22-gauge wire.

Stitch the wrapped loop to the end of the rope.

Leave 8-in. (20 cm) tails at the ends of your finished rope. Thread the tapestry needle on one tail. Cut a 6-in. (15 cm) piece of wire, and make a wrapped loop on one end. Stitch the loop to the end of the rope using the tail. End the tail.

Use a bead cap or cone to hide the connection.

Slide the large opening of a bead cap or cone over the remaining wire, and add a decorative bead if desired. Make the first half of a wrapped loop above the decorative bead, and slide half of the clasp into the loop.

The finished end.

Complete the wraps, and trim any excess wire. Repeat on the other end of the necklace.

I hope this helps, Joie. If anyone else has any good tips for finishing a crochet rope, post them below.

If you are interested in making a crochet bangle with an invisible join,

check out this video.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

Where can I find a conversion chart for peyote bezels for rivolis?

2009-07-01T15:28:00Z

Q Is there a chart somewhere detailing the number of 11/0 cylinder beads needed per size of rivoli when bezeling it? It was mentioned by our instructor at the Bead&Button Show, but I've not been able to find it. Thank you. Libby Ungar

A Thanks for your question, Libby.

Our online Resource Guide lists important information and extras from Bead&Button magazine and our special issues like Brilliant Crystal Jewelry 2. Many of the projects in that special issue used rivolis, so we included a handy guide for bezeling a variety of sizes. You can now find that information in our Online Basics about Bezeling, as well as lots of other useful information.

Another great resource is our Beader's Glossary. It is a collection of beading terms, tools, and materials all in one convenient place.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

What is the best way to end/add thread to my stitched project?

2009-06-01T13:33:00Z

Q How do you add thread to continue a project? I realize this would depend on the project, but I'm new to beading and am "testing the waters" with square stitch and peyote. Thanks, Gary Hawkins

A Great question, Gary, and an important one too. If you don't add and end thread properly, you will compromise the integrity of your work, or end up with bulky and obvious areas of thread and knots. When you are stitching with square or peyote stitch, which should result in a fluid and fabric-like swatch, you want to be careful not to leave such obvious connections. Take a look at the Online Basics to read about adding or ending thread, or check out the video, which shows one way to end thread and secure a new one. Mastering the half-hitch knot is essential to finishing techniques, so review the Online Basics, or view the video.

One way to end a tail.

The best way I have found to make a clean connection is to stitch back through the beadwork that you have already completed, following the thread path so you don't have thread showing, tying a few half-hitch knots along the way, and trimming the thread. To secure a new thread in the beadwork, weave the thread in the same manner, making sure to exit the beadwork in the same place you left off, leaving another short tail to tie in. (I usually go ahead and secure the short tail right away so it doesn't get in my way as I continue to work.)

Another way to end thread is to stop beading when your working thread is about six inches long. Cut a new length of thread, and tie the new thread (leaving another six-inch tail) to the old tail using a surgeon's knot. Work a few more stitches until the knot is hidden in the beadwork, leaving the tails sticking out. When the knot is hidden, thread a needle on one six-inch tail at a time and end them as explained above.

I know some people might feel more comfortable dotting the knot with a dab of G-S Hypo Cement, which is fine, but I think if you weave through the beadwork enough, you don't need the glue, plus it may stiffen your beadwork considerably in that area. Finishing techniques can take just as much time to get comfortable with as the actual stitches, so practice them just as you would the stitches. I hope this helps, and if anyone has any other ideas about adding/ending thread, just post a comment below.

Thanks!
Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do I keep proper tension when crimping?

2009-05-01T13:00:00Z

Q After years of bead weaving with waxed thread, I've begun making necklaces and bracelets, stringing the components together with beading wire. I am finding that when I finish crimping the project there is too much play in the wire; not so much a problem with necklaces, but with bracelets it is too much and the finished product is unacceptable and I have to start over, sometimes three times, until I get the tension correct. The crimps are tight, the wire isn't slipping loose after crimping. I know the wire doesn't stretch, so I'm doing something incorrectly. Help! – Martha

A Thanks for the question, Martha. It sounds to me as if you are allowing too much room between the components. It is hard to diagnose a problem without seeing it, so I am only writing what I think it might be.

When you are crimping, you have to leave just the right amount of room so the bracelet or necklace can curve without being too stiff, yet not have too much space between the components.

When I finish stringing a bracelet or necklace, I lay out the strand on my work surface, and finish one end first. That is the easy part. Then I string the crimp bead and other half of the clasp on the other end. I play with the tension a bit, usually I make it as tight as possible, then bend the jewelry into the shape it will be when it is worn. I allow the beads to push the crimp bead along as I make sure the curve isn't too tight or stiff. Then I lay out the jewelry in a straight line again, and crimp the crimp bead. I usually cover my crimp beads with crimp covers, which led me to another fix. If you have too much slack, you can close an extra crimp cover over the wire right next to the crimped bead, filling in some of the space, or you can try to hide it within the design somewhere.

Sometimes just mastering crimping can be the problem, so make sure to practice crimping basics on some scrap beading wire until you are comfortable, and get acquainted with all the different tools and crimp beads available so you can choose the best materials for your projects.

Crimping is troublesome for many people. If anyone has a situation that they solved and would like to share it, please do. You may be helping a fellow beader out of a frustrating situation.

Some crimping pliers and crimp beads.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do I begin making stitched jewelry?

2009-04-01T17:23:00Z

Q I've been beading for 3 years, making simple jewelry. Now I am ready to start learning stitches so I can make more advanced projects. What is the easiest stitch to learn? The easiest pattern for a bracelet/necklace? What kind of thread should I use on the seed beads? I don't knit or crochet, so I'm lost there. I love making wire jewelry but want to try the patterns for seed beads, or is it not for me since I don't knit or crochet? I learn better by watching/looking at pictures. Thanks so much! Nikki

A Well, Nikki, I don't think there is any wrong way to start stitching! You can try beading even if you don't know how to knit or crochet. (Just ask Lora, our editorial assistant. She has patiently tried to teach me to knit to no avail!) But your desire to start something new is going to help get you through any tricky stitches you face.

Start designing your own jewelry once you feel comfortable with the techniques. These earrings are featured in the Bead&Button special issue Vintage Style Jewelry.

It is a great idea to research the materials you will use when you begin stitching. Finding out what threads should be used with what beads, needle sizes, and the proper tools will help you start out on the right foot. Thin nylon beading thread works best when using tiny seed beads, while Fireline works better for sharp beads or crystals. Look for our new Beader's Glossary under the Resource tab on our home page, coming at the end of April. It will be packed with useful information. And coming in the June issue of Bead&Button, I offer some stitching tips in our Expert Advice column.

I imagine it makes sense to some people to begin by making a specific project, whether that involves taking a class or making something out of a magazine or book, but that is not the only way to start. I think a great way to get into stitching is to teach yourself the stitch basics. It is an inexpensive way to see if stitching is right for you. My advice would be to pick one stitch, say peyote stitch. Even-count flat peyote is a good place to start. Gather up some beads - size 8 seed beads are a good size to work with - and check out our online basics on peyote. Then take a moment to review our peyote stitch video, practice a few times, and you've got it! Then you can move on to the next peyote technique, maybe odd-count flat peyote. If you get bored just making samples of the stitches, you can search our projects, and find a piece of jewelry that uses your newly mastered technique. Or if you are feeling really creative, try designing a project of your own.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do I calculate the size of a beading project when designing with graph paper?

2009-03-02T16:35:00Z

Q I have printed the peyote graph paper from the "How To" section so I can draw my own pattern. If I want the finished piece to measure 5 x 7 inches (13 x 18 cm), how large will my pattern have to be? Thanks! Rachel Morris

A I am glad you are using the free graph paper, and that is a really great question! The answer depends on what size beads you will be using. I have decided to make up 1-in. (2.5 cm) samples in several bead sizes for each of the graph papers we provide. I will begin with peyote and loomwork, and as I finish the samples I'll update this post with the rest.

The following bead counts are as close as I could get them to square samples, but different beads (such as Czech seed beads), tension, and thread thickness may produce a different count. It is best to do a test square with the beads you are using to get an accurate count. After creating a square, multiply the desired length and width by the number of beads in the sample. So for a 5 x 7-in. (13 x 18 cm) finished piece using size 11 cylinders, multiply 5 times 20, and 7 times 30. You would pick up 100 size 11 cylinders to make up the first two rows, and work 210 rows.

Create 1-in. (2.5 cm) square samples to calculate the number of beads in the finished piece. Here are examples of size 11 seed beads and size 10 cylinders.

PEYOTE STITCH

Pick up the number of beads that will make up the first two rows, then for each subsequent row pick up half the number of beads (for odd-count samples, you will pick up one less than half). To count rows, count the number of beads along both straight edges (along the edges where the thread shows).

• Size 15 Japanese cylinder beads: Odd-count peyote; Pick up 21 beads for the first two rows, work 40 rows.

• Size 15 Japanese seed beads: Even-count peyote; Pick up 24 beads for the first two rows, work 31 rows.

• Size 11 Japanese cylinder beads: Even-count peyote; Pick up 20 beads for the first two rows, work 30 rows.

• Size 11 Japanese seed beads: Odd-count peyote; Pick up 17 beads for the first two rows, work 23 rows.

• Size 10 Japanese cylinder beads: Even-count peyote; Pick up 16 beads for the first two rows, work 24 rows.

LOOMWORK / SQUARE STITCH

• Size 15 Japanese cylinder beads: 20 beads across, 19 rows down.

• Size 15 Japanese seed beads: 22 beads across, 16 rows down.

• Size 11 Japanese cylinder beads: 19 beads across, 15 rows down.

• Size 11 Japanese seed beads: 17 beads across, 12 rows down.

• Size 10 Japanese cylinder beads: 14 beads across, 13 rows down.

HERRINGBONE

•Size 15 cylinder beads: 16 beads across, 20 rows.

• Size 15 seed beads: 16 beads across, 22 rows.

• Size 11 cylinder beads: 14 beads across, 17 rows.

• Size 11 seed beads: 12 beads across, 16 rows.

• Size 10 cylinders: 10 beads across, 13 rows.

RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE

The nature of right-angle weave produces a square sample, so the stitches per row are the same as the number of rows.

• Size 15 cylinder beads: 11 stitches

• Size 15 seed beads: 10 stitches

• Size 11 cylinder beads: 8 stitches

• Size 11 seed beads: 7 stitches

• Size 10 cylinder beads: 7 stitches

TWO-DROP PEYOTE

• Size 15 cylinder beads: odd-count, pick up 22 beads for the first two rows, work 36 rows

• Size 15 seed beads: even-count, pick up 24 beads for the first two rows, work 30 rows

• Size 11 cylinder beads: even-count, pick up 20 beads for the first two rows, work 29 rows

• Size 11 seed beads: even-count, pick up 16 beads for the first tow rows, work 22 rows

• Size 10 cylinder beads: odd-count, pick up 14 beads or even-count, pick up 16 beads for the first row (1 in. is exactly 15 beads), work 24 rows

Warp threads add to the width of the finished piece.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do I make a Y-necklace with beading wire instead of chain?

2009-02-01T14:07:00Z

Q I am making a necklace for my daughter's wedding, and I like the style of a Y-necklace. Although I like this style made with chain, I want to incorporate a lot of beads, so how do I accomplish this style using beading wire? -Patty LaBar
A Thanks for your question, Patty. Luckily I have an easy answer for you.

Y-necklace with a chain base.

The Y-necklace has become a classic style that is as versatile as it is beautiful. A common and quick technique for this style is making the base of the necklace out of chain. Simply cut chain to the desired length, cut a short piece of chain, and attach the short piece to the center link of the long chain, and you have the basic idea. Add the clasp to the ends of the chain and embellish at will. I simply strung 3 mm bicone crystals on head pins, and attached them to the chain with wrapped loops. A larger crystal embellished the bottom of the Y. I used relatively small beads, and only a few to make a casual necklace, but you could cover every link with a bead and make a show-stopper!

Y-necklace with a beading wire base.

To make a Y-necklace using beading wire, cut a piece of beading wire that is about 10 inches longer than your desired overall length. Center a focal bead or pendant on the wire. If using a focal bead, pick up a seed bead on one end, and go back through the focal bead. If using a pendant, string four or five seed beads on each end, keeping the beads at the center of the wire. Now, string about 2-3 inches of beads, crystals, or pearls over both ends. Bring the beads down to the focal bead or pendant, creating a straight line of beads. Split the wires apart, and string each half of the necklace using the desired beads. Finish by adding a clasp to the ends.

For either one of these styles, it will probably take you longer to pick out the beads than it will to actually make the necklace!

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

How do I finish a beaded tube necklace or bracelet?

2009-01-01T14:00:00Z

Q I've been enjoying making a variety of tubular bracelets that require using a bead cap to cover the last row on each end. I then stitch the clasp in place. I'm not happy with how it looks as sometimes the last few rows end up looking flattened where the cap sits. Do you have any tips that can help me obtain a finer finished look?
I look forward to your response.
Diane Speirs

A Great question Diane. I think I have an idea that will help the ends keep their shape.

Completing the end of a tubular peyote necklace. For a larger version, click on the photos.

Stitching a beaded tube necklace or bracelet, whether it's tubular peyote, tubular netting, tubular herringbone, or any other tubular stitch, takes a lot of time. Although sometimes it is unavoidable, stitching a clasp directly to the end of a project can result in a weak join that may wear out over time, especially if the thread runs through metal or sharp beads. Ending a beaded tube in a secure way is important to ensure both a professional look and a quality product that will last over the years. I will explain how to create a fitting finish that will avoid collapsed tube ends, and also provide a great way to attach a clasp.

The stitch I used for my sample project is tubular peyote. I used a variety of sizes from 8/0 to 15/0 seed beads, and, as I approached the last few rounds, I began to omit the larger sizes, substituting some of the smaller beads in their place. This allowed the last round to come together in a tight circle, which is important when using this finishing technique.

Before completing the last round, I made a wrapped loop at the end of a 6-in. (15 cm) piece of 22-gauge wire. I then strung a bead that fit snugly into the center of the tube, but would not slip out after completing the last round (photo 1). I slid the loop and bead into the tube (photo 2), and, holding the wrapped loop and bead in place, I stitched the last round, then secured it with several thread paths. It is important to check that the wire will not slide out, so I pulled on the wire to make sure it would stay put. Satisfied that it was secure, I ended my thread. This created a clean end, and a place to securely add a clasp.

Next, I strung a small bead cap on the wire (photo 3) (you could also use a cone, or other decorative spacer) and a bead. I made the first half of a wrapped loop above the bead, strung half of the clasp, completed the wraps, and trimmed off the excess wire (photo 4). After repeating this on the other end of the tube, I had a secure, professional finish on the ends of my tubular peyote necklace.

Although it may take more than one attempt, and you may have to make some adjustments for different stitches, this method should work for finishing just about any tubular stitch. Start by making a short tube, then apply this technique to see how it works. When you get the hang of it, you will have a new technique for ending all of your tubular necklaces and bracelets.

Last two rows of a herringbone tube.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine

What is the correct way to measure bugle beads?

2008-12-18T15:14:00Z

Q I am confused about bugles. Sometimes the size is listed as a number (example, #1) and sometimes it is listed in millimeters (3 mm). Is there a standard way of measuring bugles? -Alyssa

A I am glad you asked, because I have been working with bugles lately, and have had some frustrations of my own!

Several sizes and styles of bugle beads.

Before I talk about bugle bead sizes, I'd like to cover a little bit about bugles in general. Bugle beads are cylindrical glass (or metal, called liquid silver) tubes, and, like seed beads, they vary in quality and country of origin. When using bugles in designs, it is important to look for several factors.

One is that the bugles are consistent in length. It can be very frustrating to make something with bugles if you have to sort through hundreds to find 20 that are the same length. Japanese bugles tend to be much more consistent in length. Another important factor is color and finish. Bugles have many, many colors to choose from with different finishes, including transparent, opaque, metallic, silver-lined, and matte. Silver-lined bugles sometimes loose their silver lining, causing the beads to lose their sparkle. There are also several shapes, including round, twisted, and hex. But the most important thing about bugles is smooth, rounded ends. If you are using beading thread or Fireline and stitching with bugles, your design will be compromised by the knife-like sharpness of jagged bugles. I personally like Japanese bugles for this reason. Bugles are sold loose, or as hanks.

The sizing of bugle beads varies as well. While searching the Intenet, I found bugles ranging from 2–35 mm in length and 1–2 mm in width. You can find longer bugles, but they are generally used for other things than jewelry. I have seen long bugles used in fringe on ornaments and in our VintageStyle Jewelry special issue, where longer bugles were used as fringe on a lightbulb cover. I think they would be difficult to incorporate into jewelry design in most cases. I am sure someone does it, though!

Each manufacturer has its own set of number codes, so a size #2 Japanese bugle won't have the same length as a size #2 Czech bugle. The best way to know what you are getting is to look for (or ask for when ordering online) the length and width of the bugle beads. It may just say 6 mm on the package, which refers to the length, but since bugles can vary between 1–2 mm in width, it's better to get both measurements before buying. Bead&Button will list both measurements from now on in the materials lists for any future projects containing bugle beads

Uniform bugles were essential to making this bracelet design work.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine