Comments

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  May 10, 2009 @ 4:11 AM

  BearCreekBeader said...

  Thanks for this time.  I have always had a very difficult time with crimping.  I can do it right, sometimes.  I have the crimps break the soft flex, the crimps scratch my neck, even the good silver ones, and I've been doing this for years.  Any more advice would be nice.  I am pretty close to just not using this form of closure.

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  May 18, 2009 @ 10:05 AM

  Lavender Lady said...

  I do what Anna described above. But before I curve the piece (be-it necklace or bracelet), I softly crimp the crimp bead.  I do this by squeezing the tool with only light pressure on it so that the crimp bead will hold the position of the wire and not slip by itself, but can still be moved.  Then it can be pushed into place by the rest of the beads, and I can adjust the size of the loop without all of it slipping apart.

  To help with scratching issue that BearCreekBeader has, I feel for any sharp edges, then bend the wire away from that area and lightly file the crimp beads edge to remove anything that may cause irritation.  

  I know that this step take more time, but I want my customers to to enjoy wearing what I've made.  Not only will it bring them back for another purchase, but I feel comfortable knowing I've done everything I can to make a good product!

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  May 18, 2009 @ 10:34 AM

  Heron_Moon_Designworks said...

  Are we sure that beading wire (Beadalon, Softflex, and others) doesn't stretch at all?  I swear that some of my earlier pieces have stretched.  The crimps are tight, all the beads are intact, etc., yet there is space in them I can't account for.  I'm sure it's "user error", yet I can't help but wonder whether the wire does stretch a little, over the years.

  Has anyone else had this experience?

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  May 18, 2009 @ 2:27 PM

  wildwestbeadman said...

  I find sterling crimp tubes to be worth the cost, even now that the price of silver has soared, because so many crimp tubes with a base metal base just crumple and break. This phenomenon does not seem as pronounced with crimp _beads_ as with crimp tubes.

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  May 18, 2009 @ 5:39 PM

  Godess of the Moonlight said...

  I read a hint somewhere that said to hook the two ends of the clasp closed and then tighten the loose end.  This is supposed to crimp it into the shape it will be worn in rather than a straight line.

  I always do it and don't seem to have any problems.  Yet.  LOL

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  May 18, 2009 @ 11:05 PM

  1Florida1 said...

  I too have learned that the silver crimp tubes far out perform base metal crimps.  As far as slack appearing out of no where over the life of the piece, I have had that problem, but solved it by ensuring the pieces don't have slack between the beads in many different places.  What I mean is that sometimes the slack is already there but is distributed throughout the piece so you can't really see it until the weight of the beads eventually pushes the slacking here and there farther up until the spaces are all together and then you have your mysteriously appearing slack.  I like to let the piece weigh itself out by hanging it up for a while before adding the final clasp.  Sounds silly but it makes a huge difference with more complex pieces that like to hide the slack.  Simpler, single strand pieces don't really require this step.  And finally, I like to place a bead cap over my crimps, but if the design is one that will fetch a better price, I will take the extra time to use that crimper tool that turns your crimp tube into a bead...I'm not sure if I'm allowed to mention the brand...but basically it is a crimping tool for use on the medium crimp tubes and it forms the tube into a rounded bead.  No matter what kind of crimping or knotting or securing I use, I always re-inforce the hold with a little dab of cement glue.  On crimps, I dab it on each end of the crimp...just a tiny dab that can't be seen but ensures no sliding will occur.

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  June 4, 2009 @ 3:11 PM

  KnitwitKreations said...

  I like the idea of clasping the piece before crimping.  Now why didn't I think of that?  Adding an additional crimp cover is another solution to keep in mind.

  Before slipping my crimp tube onto the wire, I gently flatten it just a bit, so that the interior is oval rather than round.  That seems to make the two sides of the wire separate naturally, making the crimping easier.  I also slip a finger of my "holding" hand between the two pieces of wire to encourage the separation.

  I haven't tried the special tool that turns the crimp tube into a bead, but now that I've seen a recommendation I might give it a shot.  

  Even though I always use a crimp cover, I splurged and invested in the Soft Flex flush cutters.  They are wonderful, and worth every penny.  Bonus:  other than the Fiskars kids' scissors, they're the only thing I've found that cuts 6-lb. test Fireline easily.

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  July 16, 2009 @ 12:45 PM

  shaktipaj said...

  I always use silver crimps, and I strongly urge everyone who hasn't already to buy and make friends with crimping pliers! The other thing is that I always use crimp covers - even if they are just Balinese seamed beads that I open and place over the crimp.

  I use a little trick that has eliminated the 'settling' or stretching aspect AND assures a close crimp as well as a nice drape to the necklace.

  ( this explanation is a little long - but worth it!!!!)

  I string the necklace as Anna does, and then add one size 10 or 11 seed bead. Then I finish half of my clasp on that end, complete with crimping.

  I move to the other end and add another seed bead.  Then string the crimp, French bullion wire and other end of the clasp. I pull the necklace in a straight line -taut and stiff , no gaps- until just before it starts to 'kink.'  I hold it firm in this state and finish the crimp.

  Then, using the front hole in my crimping pliers, I break  the seed bead(s). (the front hole doesn't have a U-shape)

  I usually put the whole necklace in a ziplock to do this - it catches the fragments and keeps them out of my eyes as well. :^)))

  Next,  I hold the necklace on one end and gently shake the necklace to distribute the 'space' I just created, so that the necklace drapes properly. I generally turn it over and shake from the other end, too.

  There are a few advantages to doing it this way. The drape on the necklace can be controlled completely - the space is determined by the size and number of seed beads you add - if more space is needed, as with large elements, add more seeds. Although tempting, I don't recommend using beads over a size 10 - they are hard to break. If the necklace you are making has small or delicate elements, use smaller beads - I regularly use size 15 beads for this purpose.

  You can also just add one seed bead, but if you do, add it on the final crimp end - here's why:  by adding a seed bead at the final end, you lengthen the space between the crimp and your last design bead. This eliminates the main reason that folks can't get their crimps tight in the first place - no room to maneuver!

  If the seed bead breaks while you are crimping, no loss, just one less step! But do be careful of the glass dust...

  One last thing - I know that breaking beads of any nature wounds the bead lover's soul, and there are no truly 'ugly' beads - but in this case, try to use the 'ugliest' color and most inexpensive beads you can find - that way it doesn't hurt as much. LOL As they say: You have to break some beads to make the perfect necklace!

  Perri Jackson