Q I have been attending gem and jewelry shows for a while, and it is really hard for me to buy pearls. I always find myself wondering what is fake or just low quality. Often strands of pearls look the same, but the price points are starkly different. How does a beader buy the best pearls and know she is getting quality?

Andrea L. Dono

Falls Church, VA 

A That is a really good question, Andrea. There are several things to consider when buying pearls, including style, color, and cost. Pearls come in so many shapes and colors that it is difficult to determine what defines quality. I will cover a few points about cultured pearls, which hopefully will help you next time you are standing in front of a sea of pearls at a show.

If you want to knot between a strand of pearls, making a classic pearl necklace, the pearls will be the main focus of the design, and you need to choose them carefully. Look for the following things: shape, color, surface, and cost. Your own taste and budget will determine what you choose. If you want perfectly round pearls with beautiful luster and a smooth surface, you should expect to pay more than you would for treated pearls. Some pearls are treated to enhance the color, and many of them are very beautiful, so you can use them just as they are in a classic design, or use them in other designs. Treated pearls also come in a variety of shapes: potato, rice, teardrop, button, coin, and many, many more. This further increases design options.

Once you decide on a color and shape, take a closer look at the surface of the pearls. They should be shiny and smooth. Lower quality pearls will have wrinkles, bumps, or other blemishes on the surface, and that can be undesirable, although some designers incorporate these unusual textures as part of their designs. Look between the strung pearls to see that the holes are smooth and even. Some low-cost pearls actually show the layers of nacre around the hole, which can be rough or sharp.

Quality pearls have some weight to them, and of course the larger the pearls on the strand, the heavier the strand should be. Next time you have access to some really expensive pearls, take a look at their characteristics and remember their weight and feel. Check out the deep luster, the shine of the surface. Then keep these in mind when you are looking at other sizes or styles. If they have these desired traits, check the price; if that is in line with what you've seen before, then you are probably making a good purchase.

Anna Elizabeth Draeger
Associate Editor
Bead&Button magazine