Hi everyone, I'm new to metal stamping...does anyone have any advice or tips to help make it a simpler process to learn? Thanks!

OHH... me too! My ears are burning on this one!

Cammy

Hi Pixie (and Cammy!),
Here are a fe basic tips that can make stamping easier...
1) Hit the stamp once, and with a dead blow. Meaning... don't hit with your wrist, use your arm, and hold the hammer straight.
2) Make sure the top of the stamp (the part you hit with the hammer) is flat. It should not be angled, or have a bump, otherwise the weight of the hammer will not be distributed evenly. If needed, grind and sand the top to be flat.
3) If your stamps don't have a notch, or mark to indicate which is the front, mark it with a dot of nail polish.
4) Use a soft toothbrush and ammonia to clean the stamp face... manufacturing can leave grease and particles in the stamp.
5) If the stamp is much larger than the impression, you may want to grind/sand the edges around the impression - only do this if you feel comfortable, since you could potentially slip and mar the actual stamp.
6) Use a heavy hammer with a large face - I often use a 2 lb brass mallet.
7) If the impression isn't consistent and you need to hit it again, you need to try and line it up with the partial impression by feel... it is sensitive!
8) If the material is hard, you may need to anneal it before stamping.
9) When using letters, it can be difficult to line them up, because the letters aren't entered the same. Use a bright light (outside direct sun is best). After the first letter is stamped, you need to get your eyes down on the metal until you see the reflection of the stamp next to the first one... then space it and stamp. You need to see the reflection to understand what I mean - this made all the difference to me!!
10) Use LOS or SilverBlack to bring out the stampings...

Have fun!

Randi

...left a couple off Randi...stamp on a hard surface, anvil or steel bench block and PRACTICE!

QUOTE: Originally posted by loopy ...left a couple off Randi...stamp on a hard surface, anvil or steel bench block and PRACTICE!

Duh... sometimes I just take for grantedd that folks know the basics! Thanks for keeping me honest!!

Randi

Good lighting and the use of scribe lines are the key to good stamp placment.

Use a ruler or dividers to scribe light base lines for straight rows or curved pattern designs.

Straight tube floursecent lights are best (no hot spots) and utilizing at least two lights does wonders.
One light from behind shining over the shoulder you use to hold your stamp and another low and close in front just beyond the swing of your hammer is ideal.

Put a piece of leather underneath to damp bounce and place your (heavier the better) anvil high so your eye level is down close to your work so you can see exactly where you are placing your stamps using the reflection off the scribe lines from your well placed lamps.

*******

Tip for all you letter stampers-

Grind a 45* cut on the base edge of each letter stamp.
Keep the cut perpendicular to the letter and grind the edge down close to and the same distance away from the base of each stamp's letter.
This way you can use this newly cut facet to keep the letters straight up and down and also on the same (scribed) base line because you will now be able to see exactly where the legs of each letter is placed.

Adjust the spacing of your letters according to what's next to it.
An 'A' and a 'W' needs to be placed closer together and straight legged letters need like an "I and an "N" need wider spacing.

Don't forget to wear safety glasses!

Thanks for the great info. I'm practicing the letter stamping & using LOS to darken the letters. I'm discovering that tumbling doesn't remove the LOS from the piece; I'm using a small steel brush to remove. The brush needles are also removing the LOS from inside the letters - not what I want to do!

Any suggestions?

QUOTE: Originally posted by jbu1657 Thanks for the great info. I'm practicing the letter stamping & using LOS to darken the letters. I'm discovering that tumbling doesn't remove the LOS from the piece; I'm using a small steel brush to remove. The brush needles are also removing the LOS from inside the letters - not what I want to do! Any suggestions?

Pro Polish Pads. beaducation has them "These pads have a micro abrasive that lightly buffs while it polishes. Leaves metal with a high shean. This pad will do the job of Steel Wool and a polish cloth in one step (to remove oxidation). "

HTH

Heather

I'd use win-ox or silver black (or a similar product) and a small brush. You just paint it into your letters and they will immediately turn black. Let it dry and sand/polish as usual.

I learned this in a jewelry class from a teacher who stressed not making extra work for yourself. "Why turn a whole piece of jewelry black to just darken a tiny area?" In class we used win-ox. The instructor would take the bottle with the cap on and turn it upside down a few times in a mixing motion. Then she'd set it down and unscrew the cap. A few drops of win-ox would always be inside the cap. She'd grab a fine sable brush and pick up some of the win-ox from inside the cap and put it into the area to darken. She'd continue in this fashion until all the desired areas were darkened. She'd never stick the brush into the full bottle of solution for two reasons: 1) She didn't want to accidently contaminate the solution with anything that might weaken it and 2) The collar around the bristles of the sable brush were metal and she didn't want the solution to turn the brush metal black.

Here is a link to a resource for win-ox and silver black: http://www.thunderbirdsupply.com/product.aspx?cat=OP

Hope this helps some.

Ditto to Pro Polish Pads...bought mine from Rio and I love them to remove LOS & polish at the same time. Leaves the black inside the letters or design.

Personally, I like the look of a piece after I remove the LOS, unless I want a high shiney polish. I also use the pro polish pads from Rio when I want a finer look.

But most times, I use steel wool in grades 000 and 0000 (fine/very fine). This is not your "clean the BBQ or pots" steel wool - this is the grade used to prepare car bodies before they paint, it is very fine and leaves a wonderful soft finish. You can get it at hardware stores or auto parts stores. Another good choice instead of a brush is to use Scotch brand green scrubbies... don't even bother with any other brand, none of them seem to work well except the original green scrubbie!

Randi

I really appreciate this great information. Thank you everyone for sharing!